Eagles International Forum

This '79 converted Eagle Model 05 is my first bus as opposed to motorhome.

Motorhomes, being the consumer friendly creations they are, come with "portals" already built in that allow you to feed the heavy gauge 50 amp cord and its huge plug end out through a portal in the underside of the motorhome shorepower bay, and then SEAL around the cord with a sliding or hinged plastic cover that keeps all but the smallest insects and critters OUT.

My Eagle, despite having been in use for 12 years as a conversion motorhome, and having been owned by a member very active in a bus club, does not appear to have any sort of portal. Here's a photo:



I can't believe that the prvious owner simply dropped the cord off the side of the cargo floor, and then dropped the cargo door down as far as it would go. That leaves a HUGE gap for onsects and mice to stroll on in, AND it looks really bad as the cargo door is obviosuly very ajar.

I thought about doing the fast and simple thing, which is to simply cut a slot into the edge of the cargo floor, so that the cord could be passed through it, and the cargo door then closed fully. I could picture a rubber molding liner around the slot to keep the floor metal from gouging the rubber power cord. But, I suspect this would significantly weaken the cargo floor since that edge is a BEAM in the structural system. And, the watere tankl you see in the photo is a 100 gallon fresh water tank, so weighs over 800 pounds.

I'm sure all or most of you Eagle owners out there have already solved this in some way that everyone has long ago agreed is the best way to do it, but I can't find any mention of it even after reviewing over 300 older threads on this forum.

What IS the best solution?

By the way, my power cord is a full 1 and 1/16 inch in diameter.

Jim Gnitecki

At this point in the conversion, the simple way would probably be to cut a hole in the bay floor and install a round bulkhead fitting. I think you can find them at Camping world or any number of other RV stores. They have a number of sizes available and come with a screw on cover.
Just one way that would be simple and clean.
Hal

Jim, I used an access portal use in the boat industry. It is about 3 inches in diameter with a threaded inner section. I uscrew the center section and feed the cord up through the hole. I use a high tech rag to keep the unwanted out

Good Luck Wayne

rusty wrote:Jim, I used an access portal use in the boat industry. It is about 3 inches in diameter with a threaded inner section. I uscrew the center section and feed the cord up through the hole. I use a high tech rag to keep the unwanted out

Good Luck Wayne

I love the "hi tech" specification on the rag!

Now watch the guys and gals add to that base. I can see things like:
- synthetic rag so fewer wrinkles
- treated with insecticide
- velcro to keep it from falling out
- Eagle emblem
etc

Jim, I doubt if you see that can of response on this board these guys just give info trying to answer the questions.

good luck and welcome to our board

Clifford

luvrbus wrote:Jim, I doubt if you see that can of response on this board these guys just give info trying to answer the questions.

good luck and welcome to our board

Clifford

Yeah, I sometimes see humor beyond that intended . . .

Jim G

I used a 4" threaded sewer connection just like you have at the camp grounds. Cut a whole in the floor of the bay and glued and sealed the holed around the coupling. I use this same hole to feed the water hose and the tv cable. When not hooked up I screw in the cap and all is sealed. When hooked up I also use the high tech rag to stuff around to keep out the varmits.
Tom Hamrick

A good RVer friend of mine who I discusssed this topic with today had a good idea for the "hi-tech rag".

He suggested using a block of furniture foam. He says that the advantages of that would include:

- The foam will conform around all cords, hoses, and lines run through the portal, sealing it pretty well against insects and rodents, and the wuality of the seal will not change as lines or cords or hoses are added or subtracted

- The foam is inexpensive and easy to replace when it gets too worn

- To INSURE that no insects or critters try to chew on it, it could be sprayed with an insecticide or other agent

- The foam is easy to cut to a suitable size and shape, especially with an electric knife

- The right foams will NOT absorb and retain moisture

I actually cut about a 4" square portal in my cargo bay floor yesterday, in a location convenient to the 50 amp power cord routing, freshwater hose routing, and overflow and drain line routings. I have a low-tech rag in there right now, but plan to pick up a piece of foam.

The cargo bay doors can now be properly fully CLOSED when connected to shore services!

I was astonished at how easily a drill and a reciprocating saw both cut through that floor material. Like butter. Is it aluminum?

Here is a solution to your question...My Eagle was done professionally and these pics show what they did, they used a marine set-up. You might get these parts from a place like West Marine. Before you ask why two plugs in my electrical panel(?) my Eagle was set up with two 50 amp cords. I'm STILL trying to figure out why they did it that way - who knows, but I have changed that set up to one 50 amp cord. I will post more about that change in another blog on Eagle Tech (and maybe the Project Eagle section, too).

That is a VERY nice setup. But, one thing that might be important to some Eagle owners: this kind of setup makes it far easier, faster, and less noticeable for someone to rather quickly steal your shorepower cord. Since these 50 amp cords cost about $150 these days (more if longer), that is a concern when staying at some campgrounds.

But, if that is not an issue, it sure looks high quality and professional.