Doyle, I am not an expert on this subject, but no one has jumped in, so I thought I would give you a couple of thoughts.
Trying to size a battery bank from refrigerator manufacturers data can be a bit frustrating, since there are lots of variables. I looked at my fridge and the rating tag is long gone. It was rated well for it's type and the time (about 5 years ago). It is a side by side with water dispenser, so not as efficient as some.
The interesting approach my fridge uses to be "efficient" is a small compressor that runs longer. It drive me crazy to hear it running so much, but that is the nature of beast. When it is running, I can't see the draw on my 120V ammeter. I do look at my rather accurate Trimetric battery meter and I think it draws about 20 - 30 amps on 12V. It is hard to isolate the fridge current, since we have a bunch of electronic equipment running most of the time.
While my compressor is supposedly small, it has a pretty good surge that really dims the lights for a second or two. I was very worried that this surge load would damage my inverter long term, but after 3 years of 100% on time it just plugs along. It does, however, point out the need for a good inverter (should be full sine wave) that has good surge rating.
Speaking of inverters, a modified sine wave inverter will not provide full heating on microwaves, so you need to run it longer (more battery bank). I mention this because the inverter characteristics have a significant impact of battery bank capacity requirement.
Since you seem to be working on sizing the battery bank, let me make an observation. We have 8 golf cart batteries. I work very hard not to let them get below 50% of state of charge (as measured by the Trimetric). With reasonably conservative use of lighting, my batteries will only give me about 1/2 - 3/4 day of usage. The fridge is a significant draw, but there are lots of other consumers. The inverter itself has some current draw. As I mentioned, we have a lot of electronic stuff running (DVR, TV, Motosat/internet modem, up to 4 laptops, printer, etc) running at any given time. Then there are the normal kitchen appliances. The coffee maker can use about 5 amps AC and the microwave is at least 10 amps as I recall.
So, the fridge is probably less than 30 - 40% of our load.
One of the things that folks preach is to disable the defrost function. Most fridges use a heat strip in the door and that can consume a fair amount of power. Some of us have played with this, but modern fridges are "computer" controlled and trying to disable the heat stip can cause control problems. I finally gave up and just live with the problem.
Not sure any of this rambling helps, but at least you got a reply
Jim