Eagles International Forum

Walter,
     Unfortunately, yes there turned out to be that main problem. I plan on banding it when I tackle it again soon. For now I have other priorities. I do believe that I did the right thing though, it’s a solid design…….just the tube part is the primary inadequacy. I’ll fix it. Quite an operation you did there on the rear end. Takes guts . I just don’t have the help or muscle mass to chase something like that these days. My next project is the front torso that is bad, after I band the rear.

Jim, is the front Torsilastic out of adjustment threads, or is there some other problem?

Jim,

    No, there are maybe 2-3 inches left, but after replacing the adjusting bolt twice last year, it will only adjust to a point, then popping on the threads. So we stopped. We gave it up, since it is still driveable. After doing the Bands on the rear in the next couple of weeks, that will be the next crisis.There are designs for Front Bags, and the option is there to replace it, but I'll just have to see what we want to spend on it  and if I can find anyone to help. I did post pictures and comments on the Vintage Bus Mechanics page on Facebook......and although there were some realistic comments.....I was offended by the frequent "If you can't afford it, you shouldn't own one" or "The way your doing it is stupid"....along those lines. There are certainly a lot of angry negative people out there....lol!. Let it be known that I CAN afford it, likely more than a lot of those rude dudes, but everyone should always try and save money wherever and however they can........that's what I was taught.
There....vented....feel better.....I'll keep you informed, and thanks for your help.

Jim

Having the threads go on the front adjusting rod does not sound normal at all. Was the bus raised in the front, and were the bolts loosened on the bulkhead mounts? The replacement rod might not have been of original quality. If the front is not adjusted up enough the tires can wear on the outside edges.

Brand new rod. All of the suggestions you mention were done. Major mess last year trying to fix it. First, the threads were stripped on the original rod at the adjusting/tightening point allowing no adjustment. Second, I cut that one out but could not get the bolt/shaft out to release the enclosed end of the bolt, so after 2 weeks of working on it, finally got it out, new bolt put in and ready for adjustment. However, after everything was tried (before the bolt was installed), we couldn’t get the square bracket that holds the bolt in place at the arm to move. After using heat, hammers, and a 5’ pipe wrench, we put the bolt back in. I believe it is binding at the point that the earlier bolt stripped. This time, while trying to adjust, we got a “pop”. Stopped right there and put it back together. It’s driveable but lower in the front than it should be. I think about it everyday, but I have other things to do too………..lol! If I could get the left side of this bus where it belongs, the rest of it is in good shape…….(hundreds of hours and thousands of dollars later).

Pictures of the offending parts would be good, if possible. It's amazing how much force is needed to break rust bonds, if that is the problem. It took two twenty ton jacks to break the axle free from the Torsilastics on the Model 10 I was working on. Back when it was new, it would have just dropped down when the bolts were loosened.