Eagles International Forum

I finally found out I can get the stainless I need from IBP to do my door. I have the two frames that were part of the original door. I have a couple of questions for those of you who have done it before...

First, did any of you write anything down or make a drawing of what you did? I am asking mostly because of the distance between the two frames. Should that be a pretty standard distance or will it vary from bus to bus?

Second, How did you do the outer skin on the upper part of the door? Did you just cover it in fiberglass or steel or something and then cut out the hole to fit whatever window you have?

I know I want to incorporate Steve's hinge so that will be different than most Eagles. I've got the drawing of the hinge, Steve. Do you have any good pictures or plans for the modifications to the bus under the dashboard?

Thanks.

Dale I gotta ton a pics for you and I will trade em for that cd on your desk ...

I will get started back on my door any time you want to start yours and walk you right through it. I probably have 100 pics of that part of the bus but I am not sure what part of the dash you are inquiring about? First thing you need to do is to get done with the hinges and work off of them after they are welded to the bus. I'm going to say every door would be different Dale. 1/8 inch to much of a gap means a lot of water or air infiltration, both of which are bad. To tight will lead to a dragging door in the future. Not to confuse you that the metal gaps are not that tight. I left 1 inch around the door for weather striping. Its just that I want it to stay that way for the next 15 to 20 years. Once you get into it, you will see its pretty elementary on how it goes together. I will send you all the pics you need. Go ahead and strip of the aluminum off the old doors and make sure they are usable and not to rusty.

Still got my phone number???

.........Kentucky Steve .........

Yep. Still got the number. I'm on the phone with Van now. Can I call you in just a few?

Great talking to you again, Steve. Thanks for going through all your photos with me and explaining what you have done on the hinge.

Now can anyone comment on how they did the top part of the door?

Dale first off thanks a bunch for the foxfire every thing went the way you expained,second when I get to the front door (back burner once more) I will use sheet metal and cut out the space for the slider window,hopefully others will share their build.

Dale-

We built ours pretty much like it's been discussed. I bolted the hinge to the forward door post, then to the front leaf. From there, I held the second leaf where I wanted it to be and took a swag measurement, cut some spacers, then C-clamped the two sides together. Once the frame was built, we used a piece of 16 gauge aluminum to cover the top half, then cut the window opening and outer edges to match the opening in the cap. Cindy sent me the link with some pictures: http://www.webcove.com/eagle/log/2005-3-13.htm

Good luck and give a call if you need more info!

Art

Thanks Art. Those pictures will help a lot. I'm glad you guys took so many pictures.

I for one would like to thank Cindy,after Cheryl And Cindy met last weekend and got to chatting Cheryl's attitude toward toward building our dream has taken a dramatic turn ,the first thing she said to me on the way home was;" we've got to get the Eagle fixed and back on the road " thanks guy's,WOO HOO.

Anytime Van. You can just put the check in the mail! LOL! Seriously though, I very much enjoyed our visit, and if there is anything we can do to help, holler!

Ok guys I am going to add my 2 cents worth on building a door for your bus if you are planning on raised door I would recommend using a stainless tubing for the top 1/2 of the door frame stainless has less flex than regular steel tubing and a Eagle door will flex at the top Wayne and I both have a problem with it. And on the door latch locate it as far away from the outside frame as you can and build a frame around it or don't use a latch use a keyless entry with a plunger.If you are going to have a dead bolt lock use the Cookson brand it will fit flush and not as big around as the house type plus it only has about a 1/8 inch showing on the outside and again use a frame a piece of pipe with a slot works good for that and now are you screwed up with me trying to help good luck

Clifford