EricbSC 1973 05 Eagle

You are right about the metal fan Jim. I spent quite a while on the phone with Horton. The composite fan is the way to go according to them. My plan was to run the belts on the inside of the truss, but since I am using a 30" fan, I had to use a 9.5" vs a 7.5" clutch. I couldnt get the hub in position due to the placement of the truss so it is on the outside. my rad. and cooler is app7" wide so I have about 4" between the fan and rad. I may move the rad. closer.

Eric, what you just said triggered a detour in my thinking.

When I talked about playing with the fan air clutch, that was radiator only (my charge air cooler is on the other side - a design error I still regret).

With both your charge air cooler and radiator on the same side, I really doubt you will be able to shut your fan off.

Some folks have tried a two speed approach (various designs). That makes sense if you can control it from the driver's area. I can't recall seeing one that could be controlled by the driver.

Jim

Eric,
I had not followed this post. I read it all today.

You have done much that should inspire all of us.

I especially sympathize with the dash. Mine nearly ate my lunch and I have done considerable custom upholstry.

I would like some information on Ozone Collision. I will be in Atlanta tomorrow and will be coming through Greenville in a few days. I will have some free time until the 17th. I would like to meet you and see your work up close if possible.

Joe, sent you a P.M with my number. I look forward to meeting you.

I am using the same hub that Wayne Schell and Jim Shepard used to drive the enging to right angle box. This way the pullys can be moved in and out to get the best alignment. These are not available so I made it close to their design.

The drive shaft came in at 20" which is a few inches longer than the old one. The 4000 allison is shorter that a 740 which allows the longer shaft. The tranny comes with an 1800 series yoke which is bigger than the 1700 the bus came with. We may need to turn the rear yoke down a little for a little more space.

Nice work Eric.When I but the new drive shaft on my 05 the blue plastic grease cap was a little to long when the drive shaft was at a steep angle. ( would only be that way when you go over a bad bump) I took it off and turned a shorter one made of steel one with a hole in it and tack welded it in place. But you must be sure the inner shaft has a place to go when it is at its shortest point. You mite want to look at that when you tear it apart.
Your project is like the monkey that got his tail caught in the meat grinder it won't be long now.

Wayne

Are you saying that it will soon put me out of its misery??!!LOL

Man what a short drive shaft.....but I like it!!!

Carefull Jim. I,m a little sensative about the length of my driveshaft!!LOL

I think this thread is getting out of hand and needs to be reported to the moderators - oh wait, I am a moderator

Eric, I like your crank shaft adapter. Building that shoulder looks like it would add a lot of strength. When I drew up the one that Wayne made, I made sure it was hell for stout. Then when Wayne made it, he beefed it up a bit more.

He made one for both of us and I really like the way it worked. It sure made it easy to mount industrial pulleys (with their bushing system).

Wayne needed a serpentine belt pulley for his application. His used a "K" section belt and there are no industrial pulleys in that section. I gave him the pulley groove drawings and he took an industrial pulley and had the regular grooves machined off and the new groove machined in.

I have talked to another person who took the DD serpentine type pulley and bored it out so that it could be mounted on an industrial pulley that had been machined to the mate with the bore.

Jim