Tripz Eagle 10 project

Thanks....I am sure my project is a season (or two) off, but I pay attention whenever there is talk of T drive.

Just checked my Eagle books looks to me like they shipped some with out a drop box with a 6v92 ,7 speed Spicers or 10 speeds Spicers.I know of 2 that are T drives owners have done and kept the boogies and never extended the rear one has a 3306 Cat engine the other has a 8v92 the guy that has the 8v92 Dale listed parts for sale for him on this board

good luck
Clifford

The 7 & 10 speeds are sweet. Much rather have one than the 740.

I know Eagle made a T Drive and used a 6V92. That makes for a short engine and trans and can be but in the 15 without moving things around but the driveshaft is short. I can't see how a longer 8v92 can be but in a t drive without lengthening the rear of an Eagle. Is the 3306 Cat a short motor? Also if that can be done why would Eagle use a dropbox at all?

Wayne

Wayne, I saw the 8v92 in Brownsville in his Eagle first Eagle on the first row a blue 07 he used no mitre box and the engine was against the rear bumper,the 3306 is the same way.
The set up I can not figure out is Dee's with the 3406 he used the front 1/2 of a tandem drive from a truck with the drop down and is running 3:10 gears with a FS 740 I sold him how he got it to turn in the right direction I don't know and he won't tell me lol but it works,Why Eagle used a drop box same as MCI did just plain dumb

Clifford

Thanks Clifford I would like to see it sometime.

Wayne

FWIW, the hp/torque output of a 8V92 or a S60 (or other big engine) is too much for just one of the tandem drive rearends...I'm not saying it won't work, just won't hold up for a long time...most tandem drive rears in highway tractors are refered to as 40,000# tandems and one of those used as a single won't hold up for long periods of time. If, on the other hand, you use 46,000# rears from a log truck....one of those will work.

Most single drive axle truck/tractors us a much larger rearend than the tandem drives.

Dave G Eagle rear ends are only 18 or 20,000 lbs

Hey guys!, WOW!, work all week without checking in, and find so much imformation! please feel free to hijack my post anytime gentlemen LOL! I listen to every ones opinions and views. it's the only way to learn about Eagles these days.
Now, the things I'm sure about doing to my bus, is replace engine with 8v92, add T-drive, welding 4ft to rear end, 8" inches to the roof. Yes!, jim you were right, I was just trying to save some money by going the cheaper route with welder. seeing how I am a very good artist/designer and studied each and every bus frame I could find, that had more than a foot added to the rear. so I understand your concern and advice, once again this was the reason I purchased an Eagle rather than MCI, etc,.. was because all my homework told me, if your adding slide outs, rear ends, or any structural custom work, it's best to do it on an Eagle frame!, am I right?
now, my T-drive will also have to be done next year, because that is one of those things that i will just have to hire the best to get it done right. so I just need to save up more pennies. I promise you all, I will be intouch with every one who has gave imput on this, when the time comes! 'great discussion, thank you!'
also will hire a shop to help weld rear end, I shouldn't be trying to nickle and dime that as you said. I wanted to do the big jobs first, because it seems like working backwards to raised the roof, then add to rear. remenber I'm teaching myself as I work, thanks guys

Vinny, each time I get nervous about your project, I find that you have done a fair amount of homework.

I think that your approach to do the two major projects first is not all bad. It is a huge job and you will basically have to strip the bus to the frame in most areas, but if you do them together, it will be the most efficient approach.

I am not clear about your plans. By adding that much length, you can make a "T" drive by leaving your drive axle in the same location (obviously with a reversed truck rear end). If you do that, I would take the bogies off and add tags behind the drive. Again, that would not be a huge structural change.

The main point I was trying to make in my previous post was to have a professional person with a good background do the work. If you want to save some money, you could do all of the tube fitting and tack welding yourself (or with the help of some friends) and then have a professional welder come in and finish the welds. If you go this route, I would have an good structural engineer take a look at your approach. You don't need a full blown analysis, but rather, a good "does it look right" seat of the pants approval.

You will have to pull the engine/transmission and block the frame carefully. With the engine/transmission weight off, you can use the fabricate/tack method.

Just some rambling thoughts.

Jim