Okay, so the new bus I bought has already been raised 8" but the caps and sides are not on. I have new R&M front and rear caps and side panels. What else is needed to attach all of this stuff and get it on the bus?
I know people use SikaFlex. Which one? How expensive is it? Where do I get it?
Do I need rivets at all or is the SikaFlex enough? Anything else needed?
Thanks.
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New caps and sides - what is needed?
- Songman
- Club Member
- Posts: 2107
- Joined: Tue Oct 07, 2008 1:48 am
- FMCA #: F404262
- Bus Model: 1993 Silver Eagle Model 15-45
- Location: Nashville, TN
- Contact:
New caps and sides - what is needed?
Dale Houston
1993 Eagle 15-45
Nashville, TN
1993 Eagle 15-45
Nashville, TN
- luvrbus
- Club Member
- Posts: 2981
- Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 12:50 pm
- FMCA #: F262917
- Bus Model: 05
Re: New caps and sides - what is needed?
Dale, try this place you can ask questions and find out what is best for are you going to do 1 pc or 2 www.ellsworth.com they have the best prices and the Skilfex will be fresh it has a short shelf life so be careful buying just anywhere
- beltguy
- Site Admin
- Posts: 2667
- Joined: Wed Oct 08, 2008 4:39 am
- FMCA #: F246286
- Bus Model: 1985 Eagle 10 with Series 60 and Eaton AutoShift 10 speed transmission (SOLD)
- Location: Evergreen, CO
- Contact:
Re: New caps and sides - what is needed?
I just finished a small project (toper for my service truck) and ended up using 8 tubes of the stuff. A bus would, obviously take more.
There was a lot of talk on the MAK board. The best I could get from a lot of reading is that Sikaflex-252 is the best product. I ordered mine from the folks Clifford recommended. Cost was $9.60.
I believe that the manual says to make sure that you use spacers so that the surfaces are 0.100 inches apart. I used tooth picks.
There was quite a bit of discussion about using a primer. Boogiethecat said that you must use primer. I looked on the Sikaflex site and did not see that it was mandatory. My frame was painted with Rust Bullet just before I applied the aluminum skin. I skuffed up the skin pretty good with course sandpaper. Adhesion seems very good, but the job is only about a month old.
I think it is the best product to use, but pretty pricey.
Jim
There was a lot of talk on the MAK board. The best I could get from a lot of reading is that Sikaflex-252 is the best product. I ordered mine from the folks Clifford recommended. Cost was $9.60.
I believe that the manual says to make sure that you use spacers so that the surfaces are 0.100 inches apart. I used tooth picks.
There was quite a bit of discussion about using a primer. Boogiethecat said that you must use primer. I looked on the Sikaflex site and did not see that it was mandatory. My frame was painted with Rust Bullet just before I applied the aluminum skin. I skuffed up the skin pretty good with course sandpaper. Adhesion seems very good, but the job is only about a month old.
I think it is the best product to use, but pretty pricey.
Jim
Jim Shepherd
Evergreen, CO
'85 Eagle 10 with Series 60 & Eaton AutoShift 10 speed transmission SOLD
2005 Dodge 2500 with 5.9 Cummins and 6 speed manual 2022 Sunset 28 foot trailer
Bus Project pages: http://beltguy.com/Bus_Project/busproject.htm
Blog: https://beltguy.com/Travelogue/
Email: eaglesinternational.email at gmail.com NOTE this email box is only for general correspondence related to the forum and not technical advice. Technical questions will not receive a response.
Evergreen, CO
'85 Eagle 10 with Series 60 & Eaton AutoShift 10 speed transmission SOLD
2005 Dodge 2500 with 5.9 Cummins and 6 speed manual 2022 Sunset 28 foot trailer
Bus Project pages: http://beltguy.com/Bus_Project/busproject.htm
Blog: https://beltguy.com/Travelogue/
Email: eaglesinternational.email at gmail.com NOTE this email box is only for general correspondence related to the forum and not technical advice. Technical questions will not receive a response.
-
- Club Member
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- FMCA #: F293518
- Bus Model: 1989 NJT model 20
- Location: Morehead City, NC
Re: New caps and sides - what is needed?
I used the Sikaflex 252 when I put the sides over the windows that I removed. I took a grinder to the steal surfaces that I was going to bond to, used the cleaner and primer. To get my spacing, I went to Lowes and purchased a bag of plastic spacers that you use to space tiles. My siding has been on for 5 years or so with no problems. The one tool you will want to purchase is an air operated corking gun. Harbor Freight has one for under $20.00. The Sika is stiffer than corking and you hand will get sore. With the air gun you can put down an even bead and do it fast. You have a limited time from the time you start until you set the panel.. The other concern is how to keep pressure on the panel until the Sika sets. I parked next to a building and wedged 2x4's between the building and the bus.
I would strongly consider using the Sika system as they recommend. I just didn't like the vision of losing a piece of siding going down the road at 60 mph.
Oh, by the way wear gloves!
Art
I would strongly consider using the Sika system as they recommend. I just didn't like the vision of losing a piece of siding going down the road at 60 mph.
Oh, by the way wear gloves!
Art