Announcement Block
As of 12/1/2021, a major update of the forum software was accomplished
Update: 3/7/2024: The Eagles email account at GoDaddy no longer works. I have set up a gmail account as a workaround: eaglesinternational.email at gmail.com
Registration is open to the public (*) and free from any cost or obligation. Please allow up to 36 hours for your application to be processed. If you have problems registering, please email me at: eaglesinternational.email at gmail.com
(*) spambots will be deleted -- only legitimate public applications will be processed.
Reminder: the "quick links" menu offers you the best navigation of this forum -- you need to be registered and logged in to see that menu.
As of 12/1/2021, a major update of the forum software was accomplished
Update: 3/7/2024: The Eagles email account at GoDaddy no longer works. I have set up a gmail account as a workaround: eaglesinternational.email at gmail.com
Registration is open to the public (*) and free from any cost or obligation. Please allow up to 36 hours for your application to be processed. If you have problems registering, please email me at: eaglesinternational.email at gmail.com
(*) spambots will be deleted -- only legitimate public applications will be processed.
Reminder: the "quick links" menu offers you the best navigation of this forum -- you need to be registered and logged in to see that menu.
rear longer adjustment rods
-
- Club Member
- Posts: 70
- Joined: Sat Sep 05, 2009 8:55 am
- FMCA #: f208485
- Bus Model: 1984 eagle model 10 #408217
rear longer adjustment rods
help, looking for anyone that has changed out the rear adjustment rods for the longer ones.i am trying to do this, but the piece that the rod goes through is frozen.will not turn to take out the old one. help. thanks mark
-
- Posts: 390
- Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 1:49 pm
- Location: Brownsville, Texas
Re: rear longer adjustment rods
Mark,
I have heated up the part where the rod goes through and brushed neverseize on it. The neverseize will penetrate into the pivot with the heat similar to the way solder does. Then you can try to work it lose. Don't heat the pivot to much, just enough to get the neversieze to draw in.
I have heated up the part where the rod goes through and brushed neverseize on it. The neverseize will penetrate into the pivot with the heat similar to the way solder does. Then you can try to work it lose. Don't heat the pivot to much, just enough to get the neversieze to draw in.
Daniel Lenz
Brownsville, Texas
The work of an unknown good man is like a vein of water flowing hidden underground, secretly making the ground greener.
Brownsville, Texas
The work of an unknown good man is like a vein of water flowing hidden underground, secretly making the ground greener.
- luvrbus
- Club Member
- Posts: 2981
- Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 12:50 pm
- FMCA #: F262917
- Bus Model: 05
Re: rear longer adjustment rods
Mark, this is the way I do it
1 remove the grease zerk and drill the caked up grease out and try to grease the rod on the bottom half.
2 I clean the rod were the adjustment nut are and soak with parts blaster.
3 I heat the nuts if they don't turn but wait till the nuts and rods are cool never try to turn the nuts when they are hot.
4 If you can get the adustment rod to move with the top or bottom nuts they will come out
5 I move the top nut up where I can use a cut grinder to cut the bolt then I use a impact wrench on the bottom nut (if the rod is to long for a socket cut some off) and pull it out
6 heat the top pin brackets and rod to a glow with a rosebud tip
Let set overnight then take a port o power or jack with a long
rod and brace it from the other side and push and they come out
The wheels need to be off so you can get a level push often you need to let the rear axle down a little
Once you remove the 1st and have a system going it get easier on the next
PS make sure you remove the zerks because with heat they become a weapon
good luck if you have more questions please ask
Clifford
1 remove the grease zerk and drill the caked up grease out and try to grease the rod on the bottom half.
2 I clean the rod were the adjustment nut are and soak with parts blaster.
3 I heat the nuts if they don't turn but wait till the nuts and rods are cool never try to turn the nuts when they are hot.
4 If you can get the adustment rod to move with the top or bottom nuts they will come out
5 I move the top nut up where I can use a cut grinder to cut the bolt then I use a impact wrench on the bottom nut (if the rod is to long for a socket cut some off) and pull it out
6 heat the top pin brackets and rod to a glow with a rosebud tip
Let set overnight then take a port o power or jack with a long
rod and brace it from the other side and push and they come out
The wheels need to be off so you can get a level push often you need to let the rear axle down a little
Once you remove the 1st and have a system going it get easier on the next
PS make sure you remove the zerks because with heat they become a weapon
good luck if you have more questions please ask
Clifford