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Siding Replacement

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Siding Replacement
Wed Jun 10, 2009 12:49 pm


We just finished replacing the upper siding on one side of the bus. The foam distorted thother so bad that I took it off, Went back with .125 t6061. Put the bow in it with oak that we sressed to .375 thick.http://inlinethumb22.webshots.com/42005 ... 200Q85.jpg Foamed all gaps before the final foam.

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Last edited by ericbsc on Wed Jun 10, 2009 2:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Eric Brown
Spartanburg, SC
1973 05
Series 60 allison 4000MHP
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Re: Siding Replacement
Wed Jun 10, 2009 1:55 pm


A few more shots


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Eric Brown
Spartanburg, SC
1973 05
Series 60 allison 4000MHP
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Re: Siding Replacement
Wed Jun 10, 2009 2:14 pm


Looks Good Eric!

Are you going to put this in a project thread of yours? That would keep all of your progress photos in one place.

It's OK here, just a suggestion. ;)

Paul
Becky & Paul Lawry
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Re: Siding Replacement
Thu Jun 11, 2009 5:02 pm


Eric, Looks good. If you have time would you go into more deal. I will be going through the siding thing in about a year and I will need all the help I can find.

Thank You Wayne
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Re: Siding Replacement
Mon Jun 15, 2009 9:01 am


I removed the first skin I put on because the foam caused such distortion. It was 3036 .063 thick. Wrong choice but I wanted the seamless look without vertical seams. I looked for a year but could not find t6061 in a roll for what I was going to do. The original skin is 6061 at .093 thick according to Dan. If you could find the right lengths and widths it would be great. The problem is that the mill wants a 10k lb. order min!! I settled on 6061 X .125 thick. The wgt. And cost was minimal compared to the .093, and would be much stiffer when installed. The top pc. was cut 42", and the bottom 28". There are 3 vertical seams that show. I was able to get 60x 144" for the bottom. You get 2 cuts from each. Each side requires app.2.5 runs, therefore you will need three sheets of that one. I used 4)48 x144", and 2)48x120 for the top. I used the 10' pc. first. That puts a seam right beside my second window. It is not even noticed as there are rivets up each side of the windows. If you look closely at the third pic. in the post you will see a strip running front to back on the lower skin. There is also one on the top one. I didn’t think at the time but I should have put three on the top because of the added width. The strip is app. 7/16" thick X 2.5" wide. The sides have a 3/8"r., and the ends are tapered. They extend app, 12-18" from the end. Each pc. has been milled to allow for a flush joint in the vertical seam. The horizontal seam between the upper and lower is not flush. I was milled app. .050" dp. a trim strip will cover it anyway. Keep in mind that the window frame will extend into that area also. I replaced the entire tube under the windows with 1.5 x 3" tube. The original is 1.5 x 1.5. I was able to drop the seam lower in order to clear the frame. The bottom edge of the lower was milled to allow the fluted siding to lay flush on top of it. Wisdom would say that is backwards, but if you need to replace the fluted siding then your skin comes loose also. I solve the problem by running a ps of .055" alum. from the belt line up behind the smooth siding. If there is a lead the water will run out at the bay opening. This also allows a completely smooth surface for the lower trim. I put the lower siding on first. I drilled and fitted all holes for the complete side. I then removed every pc. The problem with not removing the siding is that shavings and burrs get between the layers as you drill. When riveted they create a small bulge. This shows up in the skin. I debured all holes. I then countersunk the holes at the fluted siding to allow for a flat fit. At the top of the lower siding I counter bored every 6” The top Lapps over. It was not counter bored as the trim covers it anyway. The cost of the counter bored rivets is app 4x also. I put silicone between the skin and frame. At all critical joints I used sica 221 equiv. 252 is stronger but must be applied thicker in order to work correctly. Keep in mind that when riveted the mates are almost flush. I riveted back and forth, but not to close. Start in middle skip 2-3’. As you move back and forth the skin will lay down. I hope this is not tooooo drawn out but you said you wanted detail!! If you have any more questions Feel free to contact me. 864-444-7373 :D
Eric Brown
Spartanburg, SC
1973 05
Series 60 allison 4000MHP
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Re: Siding Replacement
Mon Jun 15, 2009 3:51 pm


Eric, Thank You for taking time to post more details. When I get questions I will ask on this post so other can learn from you

Thank You Wayne
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