Website Home | Info & Posts | Club Membership | Eagle History | Contact Us

DD3 Brake chambers

This is a public forum to discuss Eagle related technical issues. If you are having a problem with your Eagle, this is the place to find help.
DD3 Brake chambers
Tue Mar 31, 2009 9:04 pm


Okay where would I find rebuild parts for DD3 chambers. I lost a front chamber and am rebuilding those (piece of cake) and new air lines. I don't have a problem with them but want to re-do those and the boggie cans.Better to do in the yard than on the road.
My dad had the bus for 10 years and never did any can work, want to make sure planning a long trip. Thanks for any help
ED
77Eagle05
Board Member
Board Member
 
Posts: 179
Joined: Sat Oct 18, 2008 8:10 pm
Location: Murrell Inlet , SC


Re: DD3 Brake chambers
Tue Mar 31, 2009 9:51 pm


Ed-

The DD-3 brake chamber is a Bendix-Westinghouse designation for the type of chamber. You shouldn't have a problem finding part numbers from any truck parts place that has Bendix parts. However, it's been my experience most places only stock the diaphrams (and maybe pushrods) because the whole new chamber isn't really a whole lot of money.

I've seen people with air brake problems (such as releasing the parking brake and then the service brakes apply) replace the diaphrams, but the air is probably leaking through the pushrod seal so it doesn't work anyway. Given my druthers, I'd probably replace the whole can if it's over 10-years old (just 'cause I'm picky about brakes).

Good luck,

Art
www.webcove.com/eagle
Art Wales
1988 Eagle 15
6V92/740
Riverside County, CA
User avatar
Sunchaser Art
Board Member
Board Member
 
Posts: 331
Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 10:12 pm
Location: Riverside, CA


Re: DD3 Brake chambers
Tue Mar 31, 2009 10:17 pm


I replaced my DD-3's with Spring Brakes last year for the following reasons. Parts are hard to get and pricey. When I last talked with Norris at Jefferson he did have diaphrams, not sure about any other parts though. You can buy NEW Spring Brake Cans for the cost of the DD-3 diaphrams. I chose to upgrade and I am very happy I did. It is not hard to change them out.

Norris at Jefferson 800.813.9367

~Paul~
Becky & Paul Lawry
Dreamscape
1968 Eagle 01 #7443
Silver 8V92 HT 740

Dreamscape Eagle Travel Blog: https://dreamscapetravels.wordpress.com/

Dreamscape Build Blog: https://dreamscapesilvereagle.wordpress.com/
User avatar
Dreamscape
 
Posts: 3021
Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 1:03 pm
Location: Full Timing - On The Road


Re: DD3 Brake chambers
Tue Mar 31, 2009 10:35 pm


Why, rebuild DD-3 Bendix stopped servicing and making those last year and the only parts you are going to get in the future are going to be real pricey.Go with the spring brakes best way out of the DD-3 mess.Paul did it after he sorta got po at me LOL it's the best and the cheapest way to have good brakes

clifford
User avatar
luvrbus
Club Member
Club Member
 
Posts: 2921
Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 12:50 pm


Re: DD3 Brake chambers
Wed Apr 01, 2009 10:04 am


Clifford, Do you have a diagram or such for an existing 05 system and what needs to be changed , added,re-plumbed for the spring brakes. I know Paul did his on an 01 different on my 1977 05 ?????.
I will be more than willing to change over if I can get the info I need.
Thanks ED
77Eagle05
Board Member
Board Member
 
Posts: 179
Joined: Sat Oct 18, 2008 8:10 pm
Location: Murrell Inlet , SC


Re: DD3 Brake chambers
Wed Apr 01, 2009 10:41 am


Ed, The diagram on the change over is for the 05 and listed in the Thread Topic I posted in this section.

HTH,

~Paul~
Becky & Paul Lawry
Dreamscape
1968 Eagle 01 #7443
Silver 8V92 HT 740

Dreamscape Eagle Travel Blog: https://dreamscapetravels.wordpress.com/

Dreamscape Build Blog: https://dreamscapesilvereagle.wordpress.com/
User avatar
Dreamscape
 
Posts: 3021
Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 1:03 pm
Location: Full Timing - On The Road


Re: DD3 Brake chambers
Wed Apr 01, 2009 5:56 pm


Paul, do you have a list of parts I need other than the chambers. I assume the park valve, brake relays ?
My brake treddle valve is probably the correct one. The diagrams are very hard to read. While it is still fresh ( I hope ) can you tell me what you replaced what new lines you had to run or lines to disconnect and or plug.
Years ago I did a conversion on an 06 (got a kit from DEan's coach) It had the most important part step by step instructions something I'm kinda hoping for here
:lol:
Anything will help
Thanks ED
77Eagle05
Board Member
Board Member
 
Posts: 179
Joined: Sat Oct 18, 2008 8:10 pm
Location: Murrell Inlet , SC


Re: DD3 Brake chambers
Wed Apr 01, 2009 6:20 pm


ED, unless you want to go to dual air system and your 77 model may have that now but all you need is the relay at rear over the axle and a new application valve up front and new pods and a few feet of DOT line. good luck and we are here to help

Clifford
User avatar
luvrbus
Club Member
Club Member
 
Posts: 2921
Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 12:50 pm


Re: DD3 Brake chambers
Wed Apr 01, 2009 6:47 pm


Clifford, Can you give me part numbers for the relay valve and application valve and where to purchase them along with the pods.
When you say application valve where is it located up front. Are you refering to the treadle valve ? Having all the pieces in hand sure makes the puzzle go together easier. More questions to follow I'm sure
Thanks Ed
77Eagle05
Board Member
Board Member
 
Posts: 179
Joined: Sat Oct 18, 2008 8:10 pm
Location: Murrell Inlet , SC


Re: DD3 Brake chambers
Wed Apr 01, 2009 7:44 pm


Ed, I copied this from my web site.

"Installation of 30/30 Spring Brake Chambers and QR-1C Valve
DD-3 to Spring Brakes Installation Guidelines and Tips

Silver Eagle Model 01

November 11, 2008

This is for installing the Spring Brake Chambers and QR-1C Valve only at this time. Since it is a single brake system, you will want to update and change it to a dual system. This will be explained in another document.

The following links and documents are ones I strongly suggest you read and study very thoroughly.

This Bendix site has a lot of good information you need to know about brakes, chambers, valves and air dryers etc. Spend lots of time on Spring Brakes and QR-1C valve. Get familiar with it.

https://www.bendix.com/EN-US/SERVICE/LI ... heets.aspx

Great reading here.

http://www.zafr.com/trucktcom/b_chmbrs.htm
http://www.newbiedriver.com/ABCsUpdates ... kes101.htm
http://www.tsebrakes.com/pdfs/installation_guide.pdf
http://www.fmcsa.dot.gov/about/outreach ... logies.htm


Parts Needed

2 ea. 30/30 Spring Brake Chambers
1 ea. QR-1C Valve, this is a two-way check valve, for anti-compounding of brakes when both service and park brake are engaged at the same time and to pressurize the emergency side of your spring brakes.
Tube or jar of joint compound, do not use Teflon tape.
Approx. one foot of 5/8 OS dia. DOT Nylon tubing. Get more, you never know when you might need some. I had some left over from the installation of my AD-9 air dryer.
2 ea. Push Lok or Compression fittings for the above tubing. One with 3/8” MP, this goes onto the delivery port of your rear relay valve. One with ¼” MP, this goes onto the Balance Port on your QR-1C.

If you are going to reuse your existing hoses and fittings off of your DD-3’s, make sure they are in good shape.
You may need other assorted brass DOT fittings depending on your installation.




Safety First

Park your coach on a level surface.
Block all wheels so coach does not roll in either direction.


Step One

Using coach or shop air, bring your air pressure up until governor sneezes or at least 100 psi, release the Park Brake. Shut off your engine, turn off battery switch and take your keys with you.
Go under the drive axle and look at and take pictures of how the DD-3’s are mounted. Also check and measure the position of the slack adjuster arm to the brake chamber bracket, this is of course if your slacks are set correctly. Measure from center of pin location on clevis to the surface that the chamber is mounted to. Write that measurement down in the note pad you are using for this project. Hopefully your slack arm is greater than a 90 degree angle. You will see the importance of this later.

Step Two

Completely remove all air from system and tanks! You don’t want any hoses whipping around when you unhook them. ;-)

Mark your all of your air lines for correct installation later. Remove your DD-3’s, air lines and inversion valve. Pay particular attention to the two hard lines to the inversion valve, one is for the lock port on your DD-3’s, the other if for the emergency port. You will be plugging the emergency line and hooking up the lock port line to the Supply Port on your QR-1C.
If you have spacers between the DD-3’s and mounting bracket, you will not need them to install your new Spring Brake Chambers.

Step Three

Clean the surface of the mounting brackets, make sure they are flat and have no burs. This is also a good time to grease all of the points in your slack adjusters and anything else that needs attention. You’re under there anyway, might as well make the most of it.

Step Four

Now the fun begins. I’m sure that you have read all you can on spring brakes and the installation of them, you are ready to make them fit properly. Right?
Make sure the new spring brakes are in the caged position. As you are tightening the spring cage bolt notice it should be moving in. Now follow the instructions that you read for cutting the rod to the proper length. The length I ended up using was 2 ½” from face of chamber to end of rod.
You should already have the jam nut on the rod. Install the clevis and tighten to specs.
Back off the slack adjuster arm away from the bracket. Makes it easier to install and does not cause any clearance problems.
I suggest to you do one side at a time. Install the spring brake chamber on your clean bracket and tighten nuts to spec. Move the slack arm towards the clevis so you can insert the pin and cotter pin. Now adjust your slack adjuster as you would normally do when you adjust your brakes. At this point you should notice the slack arm is more than a 90 degree angle to the rod. Remember when the service brake is applied the arm and rod should be as close to a 90 degree right angle as possible.
Now go ahead and install the other side, using the same procedures outlined above.

Step Five

You will install the QR-1C in the same location as was the inversion valve.
My relay valve was directly above the old location of the inversion valve. You may have to drill one bolt hole to mount the QR-1C, the other one should work fine. Remove a plug on one Delivery side and install your nylon fitting. Install the other nylon fitting in the balance port on the QR-1C. Slide nylon tube into fitting on relay valve and hand tighten. Then slide the other end in the fitting on the QR-1C. Tighten all fasteners and fittings. Now connect the lock pipe line to the Supply side of your QR-1C, you will need a 90 elbow to do this. Should have been one on the old inversion valve, mine did.

Step Six

Now go ahead and install all of the hoses in the proper location. Make sure there will be no rubbing as they pressurize or from coach suspension movement.

Step Seven

Make sure all connections are tight, cotter pins installed and everything in order.
Now is the time to air up your coach. I used shop air and brought it up to 60 psi. Then got under the coach and listened for any leaks. Now bring up the air to 100 psi and release the Park Brake Valve. Make at least three or four service brake applications. Have someone do that while you go under to look and listen. Watch the action of the slack arms, rods and service hoses. At this time if all is well, check your spring cage bolt, it should be loose, go ahead and remove it and put them in their storage locations on the spring brake.
Now release the Park Brake, you should hear air exhausting from the QR-1C valve at this time. This is when your springs are doing their work to keep your coach from moving.
Make several service and park brake applications, go under coach and double check everything.
Go back under and using a bottle of soap and water, coat all air fittings and look for bubbles.

Step Eight

If you feel comfortable with the installation and know your brakes are working properly, take it for a test ride. I would suggest a short one at first, then crawl under coach and check again. If you have an IR temperature gun, and you take it for a longer ride, stop and take a reading of the rear axle drums. Making sure you don’t have any brake drag.

Congratulations, you have successfully installed and upgraded your rear brake system.



Disclaimer: I will not be held responsible for the installation by you or another party, this document is for illustrative purposes only. "

I hope that it helps, if you have any more questions just ask.

I have not installed the treadle valve yet and one check valve to make it a dual system.

~Paul~
Becky & Paul Lawry
Dreamscape
1968 Eagle 01 #7443
Silver 8V92 HT 740

Dreamscape Eagle Travel Blog: https://dreamscapetravels.wordpress.com/

Dreamscape Build Blog: https://dreamscapesilvereagle.wordpress.com/
User avatar
Dreamscape
 
Posts: 3021
Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 1:03 pm
Location: Full Timing - On The Road


Next

Return to Eagle Tech

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests



cron