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Inherited 1973 eagle from dad. Maybe you can help?

This is a public forum to discuss Eagle related technical issues. If you are having a problem with your Eagle, this is the place to find help.


michaelbarrow11 wrote::shock: What should I do about starting it? From what I understand the motor oil should be good for a while longer because it lasts for 5 years. If there is diesel still in it I'm thinking it should be drained and refilled. But my dad was very organized and he's probably already drained the diesel. From what I understand the diesel is only good for 6 months. Also the antifreeze should be good for three years at worst if it was mixed with tap water, which gives me about 6 months. Is there anything else I should be paying attention to other than making sure the batteries are charged? Other than everything? Lol I'm probably going to hire someone to.get it going. I know it takes a good chunk of diesel toget one if these babies rolling. I'm thinking about $100 worth should do it.


Well, your estimates of fluid longevity and costs might be off a bit. Oil does not wear out from sitting, rather, it gets contaminated with acids and water, etc. If it has been sitting for years it would be prudent to crack the drain plug (without taking it out, unless you are really good and lucky about getting it back in with oil gushing out) and see if any water comes out, or much worse, any antifreeze. If there is water, drain it slowly until oil flows, and then tighten it back up. If antifreeze comes out, do the same and hope that it is a very small amount, otherwise it is a sign of big trouble that will cost.

Antifreeze wise, make sure that the level in the expansion tank is at least halfway up. Do not worry about changing it, you need to establish that the engine works first before you spend any more money. The older diesel (without any ethanol) can last a long time. The problems are sediment and water contamination. The dual fuel tanks have drain plugs on them just like the oil pan. Crack the plug and drain out any water that might be there, but don't take the plug out (the diesel will run out much faster than oil will). I doubt that your father drained the fuel tanks, it would be difficult and time consuming unless it was over a pit.

Sad to say, $100 won't cover much of anything if you are thinking of hiring a diesel mechanic, in fact, they might not even drive by slowly for that amount. If the battery's are in the original setup, you have two 8D's, one on each side of the bus, and they require water level checking and timely charging to stay alive. If they have not been maintained, they might not take a charge well, or last very long. They weigh about 130-140 lbs each, and are not real cheap. I recommend newer battery chargers that have a desulfurization cycle, it can put more life into older batteries. The battery cable connections need to be cleaned at the switches, starter, and battery to insure good current flow. The starter and batteries will need to be in good shape because chances are you will be cranking it a bit to get the fuel primed and flowing. It will also be prudent to make sure that the injector racks are not stuck, because, if and when they are, a runaway engine situation can happen when it does start. (The main way to shut off a runaway engine is to have an appropriate cover over the air intake).

I figure that is all the bad news you will need now, but rest assured, there are other things to check as well before you attempt to drive it to Nashville. (Tires, brakes, shifting linkage, clutch condition, throw-out bearing, etc., and you can double clutch shift?
Walter
Dayton, Ohio
1975 Silvereagle Model 05, 8V71, 4 speed Spicer
1982 Eagle Model 10, 6V92, 5 speed Spicer
1984 Eagle Model 10, 6V92 w/Jacobs, Allison HT740
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DoubleEagle
 
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Location: Dayton, Ohio




Lol maybe I need to skip town and go get my head in this. Thanks for your time and all the delicious info. I've never played with a double clutch before and it sounds a little tricky. If my dad could do it like think I can.
michaelbarrow11
 
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Joined: Sat Jun 16, 2018 8:17 pm




First of all Michael, welcome to the forum.

So far you have gotten good advice. I would only add that you should make sure the rack/injectors are not stuck.

I hope that you consider keeping the bus in the family.

Jim
Jim Shepherd
Evergreen, CO
'85 Eagle 10 with Series 60 & Eaton AutoShift 10 speed transmission - not at all fancy, but fully functional
Bus Project pages: http://beltguy.com/Bus_Project/busproject.htm
Blog: http://beltguy.com/blog/
Email: jim@eaglesinternational.net (Please email me rather than use the PM process)
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beltguy
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michaelbarrow11 wrote:Lol maybe I need to skip town and go get my head in this. Thanks for your time and all the delicious info. I've never played with a double clutch before and it sounds a little tricky. If my dad could do it like think I can.


Oh, you could probably get the hang of it by the time you get to Nashville (or you won't get to Nashville!), but there are plenty of posts on the subject of shifting on this board and others like Bus Conversion Magazine's, and Bus Nuts Online. Basically, (because the trans is not synchromeshed) you have to put the clutch in, shift to neutral, let the clutch up briefly and go back down, then shift to the next gear. The art and catch of it all is to time this so that the gears mesh smoothly. If you do not, you find out what the term crash box means, you endure the grinding of gears, and if you are lucky, you actually complete the shift. This is what truck and bus drivers had to master in past decades before synchromeshed manual transmissions and automatic transmissions. It is a pure mechanical art form, being able to go up and down through the gears without excessive noise. It is also an excellent anti-theft device; a bus thief without experience would not get too far. It is also why your bus does not have the same value as one with a Allison Automatic transmission.

The problems that your father's bus has can be solved, and he apparently made several long trips in it, so it is just a matter of getting more knowledgeable about it and tackling the problems one at a time. Go through the archives of all the Bus Conversion sites, starting with this one as it specializes in Eagles. There is a lot of information out there, and check to see if your father got some Eagle Manuals. If you don't have any, check eBay and Bus Conversion sites. There are manual sets available on CD's as well. ;)
Walter
Dayton, Ohio
1975 Silvereagle Model 05, 8V71, 4 speed Spicer
1982 Eagle Model 10, 6V92, 5 speed Spicer
1984 Eagle Model 10, 6V92 w/Jacobs, Allison HT740
User avatar
DoubleEagle
 
Posts: 56
Joined: Wed Feb 14, 2018 9:26 pm
Location: Dayton, Ohio




beltguy wrote:First of all Michael, welcome to the forum.

So far you have gotten good advice. I would only add that you should make sure the rack/injectors are not stuck.

I hope that you consider keeping the bus in the family.

Jim


I will. That seems pretty important. Thanks.
michaelbarrow11
 
Posts: 16
Joined: Sat Jun 16, 2018 8:17 pm




Doubledeagle. I will be posting some photos of the engine compartment when I arrive in Detroit maybe a week or two from now. You've been extremely helpful and your words are my Bible for now. Thanks again.
michaelbarrow11
 
Posts: 16
Joined: Sat Jun 16, 2018 8:17 pm




Michael, I sent you an email about your trip up to Detroit, maybe I can help out.
Walter
Dayton, Ohio
1975 Silvereagle Model 05, 8V71, 4 speed Spicer
1982 Eagle Model 10, 6V92, 5 speed Spicer
1984 Eagle Model 10, 6V92 w/Jacobs, Allison HT740
User avatar
DoubleEagle
 
Posts: 56
Joined: Wed Feb 14, 2018 9:26 pm
Location: Dayton, Ohio




Walter I responded to your email. By the way there is electricity on the site.
michaelbarrow11
 
Posts: 16
Joined: Sat Jun 16, 2018 8:17 pm




Here are the engine photos. Doubledeagle has been giving me a lot of advice through email.
Attachments
IMG_20180709_173024.jpg
IMG_20180709_173028.jpg
IMG_20180709_173032.jpg
IMG_20180709_173035.jpg
michaelbarrow11
 
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Joined: Sat Jun 16, 2018 8:17 pm


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